There are a lot of high-tech rods on the market these days. High-tech = high dollar. Not all of us can afford that stuff, so, we make do with what we can. My favorite big spinner rod broke two summers ago in the middle of our annual one week get away out country. So I had no choice but to drive back in to Kaneohe to look for an affordable replacement at Nankos. I ended up spending about 35 or 40 on a 12 foot Penn Pursuit. Nothing fancy, but, it has served me well the last year and a half. I’m finally getting around to making some modifications to the rod I’ve been thinking about for a while. First on the list, add some weight and few extra inches to the butt of the rod.

First step is pry the stock rubber butt cap off. It’s glued on, but, not too well so this was easy to do.

Nice and easy does it!

Carefully push a small flathead screwdriver in between the butt and the blank, gently prying the rubber away from the blank. Just do a little at a time and work your way around slowly. Avoid digging into the blank and damaging it.

A little rubber is left on the blank, better than gouges!

Step two, remove the bottom section of hypalon grip. This is to make room for the stainless steel butt that I’m putting on. I’m not planning to reuse the grip so I just use an X-Acto knife to cut it off. On the top edge there is a little resin build up that needs to be cut away.

Cut a slit down the length of the grip. Carefully cut it away from the blank, again avoid gouging the blank.

Here we see the three components that will go back on the rod. Top, the stainless steel butt, middle the wooden dowel and bottom a piece of electrical conduit.

The dowel adds strength to the bottom of the blank and creates the extra length I want. The piece of conduit will slide over the dowel to match up to the size of the blank and it will add a little weight. The added weight of the three components will balance out the rod for throwing big baits. The blue tape shows me how far to push the dowel into the blank. Then epoxy the conduit on and finally the stainless steel butt cap is epoxied in place.

One final step, seal the top edge of the butt and at the same time replace the build up of resin where the decorative wrap meets the butt. For anyone interested the conduit is one inch OD with approx 9/10 ID and the wood dowel is probably sold as one inch, but, is actually about 9/10. I got lucky and had the dowel and conduit in my garage. I didn’t measure the length of the dowel, but, I cut it about a half inch longer than the stainless butt. My thought was to spread the stress point a little, if it was even with the butt the stress is on the top edge of the butt, with the dowel sticking into the blank a little it moves some of the stress to the softer edge of the dowel.

All done!